Just outside Old Town Tallinn in Estonia lies a small but fascinating neighbourhood called “Kalamaja.” The area was first mentioned as a settlement in the early 14th century and was home to fishermen and military people and, consequently, “taverns” for comfort and respite. At various points, Kalamaja has been controlled by the Swedes, the Germans, and, more recently, a forbidden military zone occupied by the Soviet Union. Kalamaja is also the location of the notorious Patarei Prison. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Kalamaja was the home of large industrial factories, and the neighbourhood was devastated by fire.
This is my neighbourhood now. I moved here a few years back, and I am fascinated by the historical landmarks I see on my daily walks. The prison is still standing, the street names have not changed for centuries, and the traditional wooden framed houses evoke nostalgia. This is why I came to write the pieces on this collection – a sort of aural
appreciation of this affluent neighbourhood. Here are some ideas about the details of this set – some true, some not.

Vabriku was the name of a famous store that sold food products during the Soviet Occupation. Vabriku translates to “factory,” which was the location of many early 19th century industries – particularly fabric and during the Soviet Occupation of Estonia - the centre of a copper foundry named “Oktoobritht.”

During the medieval period, Oda was home to many people, most of whom were fishermen (Kalamaja means “Fish House” in Estonian). Only the medieval well remains, uncovered recently when the street went under renovation for modern high-rise apartments.

Soo means swamp; this street was where Kalamaja residents disposed of their trash for many years. It is now one of the main roads through Kalamaja and home to many restaurants, boutiques, and coffee shops. The street is 831 meters long, and many of the properties of Soo belonged to the noble Baltic/Germanic family von Wahlide until the Soviet Occupation.

At 900 meters, Kungla is longer than Soo and was home to the ‘Estonia” piano builders.

In old villages, streets were often named for what was sold on them. Jahu, which means “baking flour” in Estonian, is the street that was once lined with numerous bakeries. Graniidi is so named for the Finnish granite that paved the road.

Noole is a short street and sits just a few steps away from the former cemetery and Tallinn’s best dance club today. Today the cemetery is a beautiful park with only fragments of the cemetery remaining as it was relocated during the Soviet Occupation.

Salme has one of the oldest saunas in Tallinn and is a remnant of when mud baths were available here for the rich. Salme Saun is an art-deco sauna featured on the cover of Vogue magazine and remains a working spa today.

Kalaranna is a bustling road to the famous Kalamaja Fish Market. The market has since disappeared.

Salme intersects Soo and Vabriku and is home to an important cultural centre. It used to be the site of a military shooting range and is next to the Kalamaja cemetery.

Kotzebue is named after an architect and Volta for the factories that once thrived during the industrial revolution. Volta – known for its electrical plants- is now filled with luxury apartments.